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contract for your particular situation and your state's laws.
Mold
Testing Techniques & Tips Q.
I have been hired to inspect and mold test a condominium which about 3 weeks
ago was subjected to a flood of water from an overflowing toilet in the
suite above my client's condo. The owners above couldn't figure out how to
get the toilet to stop, so it kept flooding for quite a few minutes. Water
poured down through several routes: through the smoke detector, inside a
wall from where it then flowed out to both on top of and
(apparently) underneath newly installed "wood" laminate floor, and through
the vent in the bathroom. The restoration company that was called in by the
condo mgt. said everything looked OK and saw no reason to do any restoration
work. However, subsequently, my clients have been noticing an extremely
noxious sour odor that seems to be getting worse each day. In addition,
they also haven't been feeling very well - very achy and tired - and they
are wondering if there is a hidden mold problem that could be, at the least,
causing the bad odor and, at the worst, making them sick. As there is no
visible sign of mold anywhere, I am wondering if there is a way to test for
hidden mold infestation without having to actually tear out drywall? What
are your P.C.I. recommendations?
A. One way to detect
hidden mold growth inside walls and ceilings is to turn off the appropriate
electrical circuit breaker, and then remove the plastic electrical switch
and outlet cover plates. Use an electrical circuit tester to make sure the
power is off to each outlet or switch before you proceed to mold testing.
Use a mold culture plate impactor [or air testing cassette pump] to draw an
air sample for at least 10 minutes from inside the wall in each testing
location. Then seal the mold test kit, and properly mark it as to
testing location, your client's name, property address, date of testing, and
testing method [mold culture plate impactor test]. You would use a separate
mold culture plate for each hole that you are drawing air out of. You
can do the same procedure to test inside ceilings, by disconnecting the
screws holding up the ceiling light [letting it hang by the electrical
wires]. Remember to test the circuit with an circuit tester to make sure
there is no power to the light. In addition, you will also want to mold
test the air of each room, attic, basement, crawl space, and the outward air
flow from each heating/cooling duct register for the possible presence of
elevated levels of airborne mold spores, in comparison to an outdoor mold
control test. As to the flooring, and likely mold growth beneath and in the
flooring, you need to drill several well-spaced testing holes into the
flooring in several areas to conduct similar tests. Of course, you get your
client's written consent in advance for such hole drilling, and you will
need to immediately seal the holes afterwards with a wood putty to keep any
mold spores from escaping.
For more info on mold inspection testing techniques, please visit:
►Client
Contract Mold Inspection
►Visual
Mold Inspection
►Hidden
Moisture Meter
►Find
Water Leaks
►Industrial
Hygienists Recommendations
►Mold
Inspection Client Agreement
►Dogs
Sniff Mold ►Radar
Mold Finder
►Mold
Testing In Schools
►Mold
Lab Identification
►Radio
Waves See Inside Walls
►Infrared
Mold Inspection
►Mold
In Water Testing
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